![]() My power steering pump was from my Mustang. I simply fitted all the joints to complete the links. I turned a piece of nylon on the lathe to fit inside the column, bored a clearance hole for the steering shaft and left a collar so it can't move up the column. Some restorers put a ball bearing at the end of the steering column. Power steering is such a gift on classic Fords. I used 'double-D' configuration joints that positively bear all the steering shaft stress. NONE of my steering components are welded except for the bracketry. You could say that I started at the rack gear and worked my way up to the steering column.Īll my hardware was purchased from except for the nylon bushing I made at the very end of my steering column. ![]() I made another bracket for the 'swivel eyelet' using the top frame holes. I mocked-up the rack gear and fabricated simple plates to accommodate the frame holes and the rack gear rubber mounts. Ford welded 'curlicues' that surround the bolts, inside the frame halves. That's why you've never seen the frame 'crush' under the torque required for the steering box or idler arm. The big reason why is because the holes are reinforced inside the frame. Since ours is an automatic, I used all the stock frame holes for my conversion. Ok so, manual shift clutch pedals use a "Z" bracket that mounts to the frame. I've swapped parts and services for years with many of my restorer buddies. I was happy to give him mine, so it still lives. The scary part for most folks is, cutting the steering column and steering shaft.Īs a side note: It happened that a buddy of mine really needed my steering gear box. While I rebuilt our 292 Y-Block and C-O-M, I mounted my R&P steering. That means, I must compete with the braking performance of modern cars on the road. I'm certainly not a 'purist' because without hesitation, I run my car on the highways or to cruises. I converted my stock Town & Country radio to play AM/FM/MP3 (with full 'seek' function ala: Gary Taymann Electric), I converted my vacuum wipers to electric (New Port Engineering) with full squirts and interval wipers (using stock dash knobs), I converted to power disk brakes with dual reservoir M/C, electric fan with 130-amp alt., and power rack and pinion steering. Is yours a modified stock column?From inside my car, everything looks bone stock. ![]() I have heard and seen some pictures of people retrofitting a R&P in the past. MalHey Mal! I don't have any advise but I am really interested in the process!!! Take LOTS of picture and share with the rest of us!! I am happy to order any parts, but due to the implication of non return and import duties etc would like to try to get parts that I know will work. ![]() The steering rack isn't so much the problem, but, my main question for anyone who has completed this is how do you connect the steering column to the rack? I know I am going to need a universal joint somewhere, but do I have to try and use the drop arm from the T-Bird steering box, do I have to modify the steering column and remove the box? I have seen various threads and pictures on this conversion but have been unable to get a positive answer to this problem. Hi All, Major restoration work has now started and am in the process of converting my 60HT to rack and pinion steering, ( my complete original power steering is totally shot, everything is leaking, chrome on the damper ram pitted badly, all arms bent and joints worn.) Obviously, replacement, original parts are a big problem here in the UK so need to get a shopping list prepared for shipping from the States. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |